Electric water heater mounted on a glass-block wall, wiring below not yet finished

Control panel with an INVT variable-speed drive, relays and door-mounted lamps and push-buttons

Build & MEP

Water Tanks & Pumping

Mains pressure in most Egyptian compounds is a suggestion rather than a guarantee. A house that works has a ground tank holding two days of storage, a booster set that ramps instead of hammering, and a filter train chosen for the water that actually arrives at your boundary — not for the water in the brochure.

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Scope of works

What we actually do.

Everything below happens inside our business — no subcontracted links in the chain.

Get a quote for water tanks & pumping

01
Ground & roof tanks
Reinforced concrete tanks with a cementitious waterproof lining, GRP sectional panel tanks where access is tight, and food-grade polyethylene roof tanks. Sized on real occupancy and the compound supply pattern, with access hatch, overflow, vent and drain-down detailed properly.
02
Booster sets & pressure vessels
Duty and standby pumps on a common manifold with a diaphragm pressure vessel, dry-run protection, non-return valves and isolation on every leg — so a failed pump is a service call rather than a cold shower.
03
Variable-speed pumping & hammer control
VFD-driven pumps that hold a constant set pressure instead of cycling on and off, soft-start and soft-stop, arrestors at fast-closing appliances and correctly bracketed pipework. This is what stops the banging in the walls.
04
Filtration & sterilisation
Multimedia and carbon filtration to strip chlorine, taste and odour, a five-micron polish, and UV after storage. Softening only where a test shows the supply is genuinely hard, and never by reflex on the coast — corrosion-tolerant materials and pH correction are the right answer for desalinated water.
05
Internal plumbing — PPR & PEX
Full hot and cold distribution in fusion-welded PPR, or PEX on a manifold where every outlet gets its own run and its own isolation. Pressure tested and photographed before anything is covered.

Specification

The numbers, before you ask.

Water Tanks & Pumping — technical specification
Ground tank	RC with cementitious waterproof lining, or GRP sectional panels
Roof tank	Food-grade polyethylene 500–2,000 L; GRP above that
Booster set	Duty/standby with VFD, pressure vessel and dry-run cut-out
Working pressure	2.5–3.5 bar at the furthest outlet; PRV fitted above 4 bar
Pipework	Fusion-welded PPR (PN20) hot and cold, or PEX on a manifold
Tank cleaning	Drain, scrub, chlorine sterilisation and rinse — twice a year

Selection

How we scope water

Villa ground and roof setNew Cairo · Sheikh Zayed
Buried tank for storage, transfer pump to a roof tank for gravity head, booster set for the upper floors. The arrangement that survives a compound supply that drops in the afternoon.
Chalet pressure setSahel
Compact tank and variable-speed booster for a unit that is empty most of the year, with a leak sensor and a motorised shut-off valve on the main.
Hard and saline water treatmentNorth Coast
Softening and filtration for supplies that scale kettles, ruin mixers and leave marks on stone and glass within a season. Marassi, Fouka Bay and Almaza Bay units almost all need it.
Apartment repipeRenovation
Stripping out corroded galvanised steel and rehanging the whole distribution in PPR, with isolation at each wet area so the next repair is not a building-wide shutdown.
Tank cleaning & sterilisationMaintenance
Full drain-down, mechanical scrub, chlorine sterilisation, rinse and a written record. The job most owners skip until the water starts smelling.

Gallery

Water Tanks & Pumping in place.

Every photograph on this page was taken on one of our sites during the work. Nothing here is a stock image or a render.

Braided connectors and a junction box under a wall-hung heater

Where it goes

Underground & roof tanks
Booster pump sets
Whole-house filtration
Water testing & treatment
Tank cleaning & sterilisation
Full internal plumbing
Irrigation & pool make-up supply
Leak detection & shut-off valves

Questions we get asked

Water Tanks & Pumping — questions we get asked

Why does my shower pressure collapse when someone opens a tap?

Almost always undersized distribution pipework or a single fixed-speed pump with no pressure vessel, so every extra outlet steals flow from the last. A variable-speed booster holds the set pressure regardless of how many outlets are open, and increasing the main run one size upstream of the manifold usually fixes the rest. We measure the flow and pressure at the worst outlet before quoting anything.

GRP, polyethylene or concrete for the ground tank?

Reinforced concrete with a proper cementitious lining if it is being built with the house — it is the longest-lived and the cheapest per cubic metre at volume. GRP sectional panels if the tank has to go into an existing plant room through a normal door, because it assembles inside. Polyethylene for roof tanks and small duties only. What matters more than the material is that it is sealed, vented, and has a hatch you can actually get through to clean it.

Do I need a softener on the North Coast?

Probably not, and this is where most of the market gets it backwards. Sahel is largely supplied from seawater desalination, and desalinated water is not hard — it is soft, low in minerals and mildly aggressive, so an ion-exchange softener makes it more corrosive rather than better. Nile-fed New Cairo water is only moderately hard, around 160 parts per million, where the real complaint is usually chlorine taste and carbon fixes it. We test your supply before we specify anything. Anyone quoting you the identical softener package for a New Cairo villa and a Sahel chalet has not tested either.

What is the banging noise in the walls?

Water hammer — a fast-closing valve or solenoid stopping a column of moving water dead, and the shock travelling back through pipework that is not braced. It cracks fittings over time. The fix is a combination of arrestors at washing machines and mixer taps, soft-stop on the pump, and rebracketing the runs that are drumming against the structure.

How often should the tank be cleaned?

Twice a year for a ground tank, more if the supply is silty. The job is a full drain-down, a mechanical scrub of walls and floor, chlorine sterilisation at the right contact time, then a rinse and a written record. It takes half a day and it is the single cheapest thing you can do for the water in the house.

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